I wanted to share a little natural make up with you. I recently worked on some shots of Barbora a gorgeous new face at Premier model management. I love creating natural looks- perfecting brows, creating flawless skin with a glow and giving the cheeks a flash of glowing color.
I prepped the skin with Liz Earle’s Cleanse and Polish Hot polish cleanser, skin repair moisturizer.
For a totally flawless skin I used Myface’s My Mix foundation, this is a great foundation for close up skin in photo shoots as it is light weight the finish is exceptionally natural (although the coverage i s too light for problem skin, you will need to team with the matching concealer).
I groomed barbora’s eye brows using Shavata brow products.
For the lips and cheeks I patted on a little Becca Beach Tint Lip and Cheek stain and finished the lips with a little lip balm.
I finished by carefully applying a coat of Bobbi Brown’s No Smudge Mascara.
I also smouldered the look up later with heavy eye liner and some rocky body art.
I have had a couple of AMAZING shoots lately with Joseph Sinclair and Oscar Alexander Lundberg. I love the shots we worked on with Maria E from M and P modeling agency.
I thought this look was a little vampy fantastic for this time of year.
To create this look I used the following products;
Laura Mercier Satine Creme Colour in Amber velvet
RMK Ingenious Powder Eyes in ME-03 Sparkly Gold
Mac False lashes in style 33 You will need 2 pairs for the top and bottom
I began by prepping the eyes and lips with Liz Earle Super Skin Eye and Lip Treatment and then began creating the eyes. I always begin with the eyes on a smoky look, this way after I have finished the eyes I can wipe away any powder drop before applying my base.
I painted a strong cat shape with the Laura Mercier Satin Creme Colour using an eyeshadow brush. Blend well, don’t be afraid to use clean finger tips to pat and smudge in creams, it works brilliantly.
I then highlighted the whole lid with the RMK ingenious Jelly shadow and then created a ”hotspot” to dramatise the metalic shine in the centre of the lid with the shiny gold RMK Ingenious powder Eyeshadow. I can’t express enough how much I love these 2 RMK colours…
I then HEAVILY lined the upper and lower water lines in MAC’s Smoulder Eye Kohl, smudging slightly into the lash line.
After a layer of Mascara apply the MAC false lashes (style 33) on the top AND bottom lash line. This is what creates the vampy/edgyness to the look.
Now the eyes are finished wipe away any powder drop so you have a completely clean base.
I applied the MAC Matte instead of a moisturiser, this works really well on photo shoots as it means you should not get shine breaking through and will not need to apply powder which leads to a duller finish.
Now apply the Match Master foundation I actually used to shades 1 as an all over tone and a shade lighter under the eyes and along the tops of the cheek bones- this was done to add contour to the cheeks for photographic purposes.
I applied foundation over the lips and brows, this gives an edgy, fashion finish to the look.
Finish by contouring the hollows of the cheeks lightly with the Guerlain bronzer.
Kristel’s stunning, large doe eyes screamed out for a sexy smoking!! I thought I’d grab this opportunity to try out some mineral make up that had been sent to me to review from Elemental Beauty!
There is an army of enlightened beauty lovers who are demanding natural make up and beauty products with out all of the unnescessairy nasties.
Elemental Beauty does not use Talc, Bismuth Oxychloride or fillers in any of their makeup.
Keeping the whole look natural I started by prepping the skin with REN Hydra-Calm Global Protection Day, Cream and REN Active 7 Radiant Eye Maintenance Gel and on the lips I applied a touch of Bloom Mineral Plus Lip Butter in like a prayer
Rather than go with obvious blacks and greys which I thought would look very hard and over powering against Kristel’s pale colourings I blended in muted green, brown and blue eye shadows which looked amazing next to her Hazel eyes.
I always start my make up at the eyes when doing a smoky look but with hard to control minerals it’s extremely important!
The loose powder can drop every where so start on the eyes and you can completely wipe away any mis-haps for a perfectly clean skin before applying foundation.
I began by heavily lining and smudging Chantecaille’s Black Kohl pencil into the entire water line and lash line.
Tip- I found the texture of the eye shadows extremely fine so I used a damp rigid eyeshadow brush for heavier impact, longevity and to minimise drop.
I applied Elemental Beauty Mineral eye shadow in Meteor all over the eye lid and as a heavy line on the bottom lash line; I highlighted from the middle to the inner corner of the upper eye and from the tear duct swept out on the lower lash line in Elemental Beauty’s Peacock. I then dotted a tiny bit of EB Dragon fly right in the inner corner of the eye and blended.
I found although these eye shadows are lovely colours they didn’t have amazing holding powder and worked well over a base.
I finished the eyes with several coats of Chantecaille Mascara Noir.
I wiped away all traces of drop and applied Elemental beauty mineral foundation in -English Rose
I was sceptical of how a powder, mineral foundation would photograph but this powder was super fine(!) and had no tinny effect that I have noticed before in mineral foundation.
I am not sure how it would photograph on dry skin or if she had needed more coverage. But as a natural alternative to a light daily use foundation it looked lovely.
I defined her cheeks with a warmer shade of mineral foundation in blush and I highlighted the top of the cheek bones with Elemental Beauty Illuminator in Rosy apple- This is a great highlighter! It illuminates rather than shines, I found lots of highlighters overly shiny but this is the perfect glow and is so fine its blends beautifully.
I was amazed when I checked the prices of these products which are all around £3.99! I dont understand how make up which is created from all natural ingredients can be at such a incredible price.
This was their glitzy chrismas issue, they wanted sparkle so my first port of call was the Swarovski crystalised store (!!!!) where I got some gorgeous gems to adorn the model.
*Make up artists* check this store out- awesome for stocking up for creative beauty shoots.
- Get the look- Smoked Emerald
If you are going for colour this party season Try going green! Think about your colourings when selecting a tone. Green looks beautiful on brunettes and red heads it sits nicely on caucasian asian and black skin tones.
Sea greens make blue eyes look aqua ( I am in love with MAC‘s limited edition Mineralize Eye Shadow Blue Sorcery). An intense forest green (eg Rimmel colour rush in envy) intensifies the green in hazel eyes, and lime (Illamasqua powder eye shadow in Dare) will highligh the warm amber tones in brown eyes. I have used a bold stunning emmerald for the shot but if you want to try some thing muted try Bobbi Brown’s Sage, Be brave and give green a go!
To create this look on Hollie @ IMG Models London I applied Estee Lauder Double Wear Cream Shadow in Precious Jade with a firm brush over the entire eye lid. This is a great olive base which boasts 15 hours wear. I blended in to the socket line with my fingers and softened this by sweeping Bobbi Brown Wheat eye shadow from the socket line out .
I used MAC pigment in Emerald green over the top. This super opulent pearlised shade is true emerald. it has strong pigment and tiny little sparkle running through - Gorgeous! I lined the the eyes heavily with MAC Smoulder liner into the water line all the way into the inner corner of the eye and around the top and bottom lash lines, I then blended the pencil liner with a small liner brush. I intensified the sparkle by dabbing a finger tip of MAC Reflects Gold into the inner corner of the eye.
The eyes are finished off by curling the lashes and 2 coats of YSL mascara Volume effet faux cils.
I wiped away any drop from the eye shadow with a wet face wipe and applied Giorgio Armani foundation designer shaping cream foundation to Hollie’s skin using a foundation brush to get a perfect porcelain effect. I finished off the skin with a sweep of subtle nude blush.
For the lips I used a suptle coat of Clinique’s Superbalm Moisturising Gloss in apricot- delicious!
If you are daring enough to go all the way with this look I attached Swarovski Crystalised Green flat back, fancy stones by dotting a small amount of Duo glue (eyelash glue) in the centre of each stone (dont use to much or it will spill out at the sides!) Give them 20-30 seconds to go tacky and then place onto the cheek bone. Place them in a random pattern that highlights the cheek bone area, be carefull to apply them in even spaces.
Check out the beauty editorial I wrote for pride magazine, this how-to appeared in their 09 Halloween edition. Part of the focus of this make up story was finding make up for very dark skin tones.
The model we had for this story was Annaliese Dayes from Oxygen models, we really transformed Annaliese for this look.
Photography by Dave Wise.
Spell bounding looks to celebrate the beauty of ebony skin using midnight blues and sparkling jewel tones, just in time for this year’s party season and Halloween.
These hot looks come to life after dark and stay on well past midnight.
To achieve this mesmerising look start with the eyes to ensure you can wipe away any drops from the bright eye shadows.
This was applied accentuating the eyes in a cat like shape. Highlight the lid by sweeping Nars Night Life shadow (priced £14.00) close to the lash line.
Laura Mercier Purple Sapphire Kohl Eye Pencil ((priced £14.69) lined the bottom lash line but can also be used to map out the shape before filling in the eye shadow.
Collection 2000 Shake It Up glitter gel eyeliner was applied over the top of the lower liner to give an eye catching purple sparkle. Apply mascara and wipe away any drops then moisturise ready for foundation.
Annaleise wears MAC Micronised Airbrush foundation. This water resistant base has buildable coverage which lasts well and gives a dewy glow to the skin which will highlight the contours of the face.
The cheeks were subtly blushed using a plum toned blusher from Sleek Cosmetics. Glossy Claret lips were achieved by applying Loreal Studio Secrets Plum Lipsstick (priced £8.99) which was blotted before Rimmel Shock gloss in Magnificent (priced £4.49) was slicked over the top for a patent shine (priced £4.20)
For the nails I used L’Oreal Resist & Shine Titanium 710 Meteorite (priced £4.88).
Start with the electrifying blue eyes. Use a blue pencil like Bourjois Contour Clubbing Waterproof eye pencil (priced £4.50) to trace around the upper and lower lash lines and smudge around the eye. This will give your eye shadow a crease-free water poof base to adhere to and intensify the colour in this area.
Now, sweep MAC’s Deep Truth eye shadow (priced £11.00) all over the lids and blend in MAC Plumage (priced £11.00) slightly out from the socket line.
Densely line the inside waterlines in MAC Smolder Kohl Liner (priced £12.00) and apply a platinum shine to the lips using Bobbi Brown Pearl Sugar Gloss (priced £14.00). Finish with Dior Show Waterproof Mascara (priced £20.00)
Once the skin around the eyes has been cleaned of any powder drops, apply YSL’s Matte Touch primer (priced £27.00) with finger tips to eradicate shine, create gorgeous velvet smooth skin and increase the endurance of foundation. Now apply Oil free Iman Second to None cream to powder foundation .
The finishing touch to this look was jewel toned talons Chanel nail colour, in Blue Satin
Apply L’Oreal Studio Secrets Shadow Grey eye shadow (priced £5.99) to the whole lid area all the way up to the socket bone and also sweep along the lower lash line
Light up your eyes by highlighting the inner corners with a vibrant silver shadow MAC Pigment in Silver (priced £15.00) and give a flash of colour to it by blending blue eye shadow Bobbi Brown Midnight (priced £14.00) out from the outer corners, elongating the eye shape.
Add warmth to the cheeks with Bobbi Brown Cranberry (priced £16.00), paint some illuminating sparkle on the lips by sweeping on Chanel Levres Scintillantes Magnifique (priced £18.00) and to the nails by finishing the look with Gosh Nail Varnish in Gasoline (priced £4.89).
Now you are ready to go out and own the night.
I recently wrote a seasonal how-to which I thought everyone would enjoy coming close to Christmas. I also did the make up for this editorial with amazing photographer and good friend Dave Wise.
Evening make up
It’s that time of year again when grudgingly we watch our tans quickly fade, pile on the woolly layers and wave good bye to the last days of summer but thankfully we have a glitz filled party season to cheer us up. I have created professional step by step evening looks so you can turn heads this autumn.
This look is long lasting understated and elegant; the alluring lashes add instant femininity.
Individual eyelashes Eyelure (£4.80) are a make up artist’s favourite beauty secret. They can be customised to every model to simply add exceptionally natural thickness to lashes or even to create long-lasting fluttering glamour puss lashes. They can last up to 4 weeks and need little or no mascara eradicating the possibility of smudges or chips so perfect for evening beauty
Before you start make sure your lashes are completely clean and oil free.
Select the lashes that will work best on you and thing about the finish you want, natural, glam, flared at the corner….
Choose how long you want the lashes to last, if only for1-2 days Duo lash glue (£8.50) is an outstanding glue for easy application and removal. Or for more of a semi permanent lash (up to 4 weeks) use Eyelure’s individual eyelash glue and remover which is included with the lashes.
Keep the eye you are working on closed throughout application.
With the glue applicator or a fine disposable brush apply the glue from the stem of the lash and spread up the lash a little so the lash has lots of surface area to adhere to your own lashes, be careful not to drown the lash in glue.
Give the lash a few seconds to go tacky.
Start from the corner of the lashes and work towards the middle
Hold the individual eyelash carefully with clean fingers tips in place pressing as close as possible to your lash root.
Open your eye when the glue is dry; do not panic if the eye corners stick at all when you open your eye. Carefully use your nails to pick any pulling glue off. Do be extremely careful through out the application, if any glue goes into the eye follow manufacturers guidelines.
Once the lashes are totally dry you can apply the rest of your make up but be extra careful not to pull or rub the lashes out of place.
A flawless base is key when working a naturally gorgeous look and vitally important for every model to be able to achieve in their working lives.
Determine your skin type and ensure you select your skin care according to this. Banish any overly perfumed or abrasive products from your bath room cabinet; don’t over load your skin. (For advice try a Dermalogica skin mapping consultation 0800 591 818 ).
Now your skin is perfectly clean and moisturised a primer is a fantastic product to get a prolonged smooth finish from your foundation. Smooth Laura Mercier’s moisturising primer £26.43 in with finger tips to get a deliciously dewy glow to dry/normal skins or apply L’Oreal studio secrets anti shine mattifying primer (£9.99) This competitively priced primer holds its own to the big dogs and gives a beautifully smooth velvety finish which controls shine for oily skins and keeps your foundation fresh for hours.
Start your make up with your eyes this way any drop from the eye shadow can be wiped away before your foundation is applied.
Lightly sweep Bobbi Brown Bone eye shadow £14 all over the eye from lid to brow as a base, follow with Mac Woodwinked £11 blending over the lid area and blend a lighter shadow to highlight into the inner corner of the eye and to highlight just below the brow area, Mac Shroom £11.
Wipe away any drop and line the eyes tracing neatly around the lash line and blend with a fine eyeliner brush. Chanel long lasting waterproof eyeliner in Espresso.
Wipe away any powder drop with a face wipe and then apply Bobbi Brown Skin foundation (£27.00) with a foundation brush for long wearing buildable coverage that looks like perfect skin. Cover up any visible imperfections with Bobbi Brown touch up stick (£17.00).
Lightly press a little Rimmel Stay Matt Powder over the t-zone to set and bronze outwards from the forehead spread out from the tops of cheeks and dab a tiny small amount on the bridge of the nose. Bronzer gives more believable depth to the face and eradicates any unnatural blankness from the foundation Guerlain Bronzer (£30.00).
To give an instant healthy glow to the apples of the cheeks dust Illamasqua’s powder blush in Chased (£16.00)
Finish with a glossy long lasting lipstick Bobbi Browns Creamy lip Colour in Crystal Pink (£15)
Smokey eyes and pale lips (Annalise)
Again start with the eyes. You will get a lot of noticeable powder drop from a dark smokey look so start with a cream to give extra drama and a good base for shadows to adhere to.
For the eye look I have used Dior 5 Couleurs Designer palette in Smokey design 08. An all in one palette with 4 textured blendable shades and a cream liner with a matt velvety texture which in this case I also used as a base for my shadows.
I spread the cream over the whole of the lid and blended the darkest shadow over the lid and the medium shimmering shade over the centre of the lids and into the corners and traced it around the lower lash line.
Macs smoulder eye kohl pencil (£12.00) was densely penciled into the upper and lower water lines and blended into the lash line using a fine brush to add fierce intensity.
A matt brown powder was blended in to the eye socket area and Bobbi Brown’s Bone Powder (as before) was used to high light under the eyebrows.
I applied 2 coats of mascara combing through from roots to tips as the finishing touch to the eyes Make up Forever’s Smokey Lash Mascara (£14.00)
After combing through the eyebrows I used Laura Mercier’s double ended brow brush (£27.00) and swept through Laura Mercier’s brow defining wax in a light feathering motion where ever the brows looked sparse. As the eyes are so striking do not over do the eyebrows, keep them natural to avoid the look becoming hard.
I applied Iman’s Luminous foundation to Annalise’s skin using a sponge, the oil free formulas and vast selections of colours are perfect for darker skin tones. Cover up any visible imperfections with Bobbi Brown touch up stick (£17.00).
Once the foundation has settled lightly press a little Rimmel Stay Matt Powder over the t-zone with a powder brush to set. Bobbi Brown’s blusher in Tawny (£16.00) was subtly brushed on to the apples of the cheeks to give a healthy flash of warmth.
To create a long lasting pale lip a pencil liner slightly lighter than Annalise’s lips was applied all over the lip area to tone down the lips MAC Naked Rose Cream stick Liner (£10.50). Nars Supervixen Lipgloss (£17.00) was painted neatly over the lips to finish this look.